![]() A traditional weaver from Sumatra | |
Type | Art Fabric |
---|---|
Material | Silk, cotton, gold, silver |
Place of origin | Java and Lesser Sunda Islands (mainly and originally),[1]: 86–88 [2]: 186 Indonesia[3][4] |
Manufacturer | Indonesians |
Tenun is an artful Indonesian technique of making a fabric by weaving different colours of threads.[3] Tenun belongs to one of the typical Indonesian cultural arts produced by hand skills using traditional looms. The word Tenun itself has a high meaning, historical value, and technique in terms of colors, motifs, and types of materials and threads used and each region has its own characteristics. In addition, Tenun is also one of Indonesia's original cultural heritages that is still maintained and preserved to this day.[5][6][7]
Tenun fabrics are made in various places in the Indonesian archipelago such as on the islands of Sumatra, Java, Bali and Sulawesi, where each region has its own uniqueness and characteristics in terms of motifs and colors. These differences are caused by geographical location, beliefs, customs and the surrounding natural conditions including flora and fauna, each region has certain differences and uniqueness as well as contacts or relationships between regions, from the many types of Tenun, ikat and songket are the most well known or popular in many countries.[8][9][10]
Since 2010, various Tenun traditions practiced throughout Indonesia officially recognized and regarded by the Ministry of Education, Culture, Research, and Technology of Republic Indonesia as integral part of the National Intangible Cultural Heritage of Indonesia.[11] Furthermore, since 2013, the Tenun and Ikat alongwith another native textiles of Sumba has been nominated and protected under the Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage as part of Indonesia's Intangible Cultural Heritage by the UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization).[12][13]
Etymology
... mwang sang watek guru niniki mangindit-indit; tan sah panucyan ira len tenunan pamuswan; lawan tikaṅ wusu-wusu lawayan gumantun; kapweka ling nira silunglung ing paratra ...
— The 12th century manuscript of Kakawin Bhomantaka from East Java, Tracing Patterns of Textiles in Ancient Java (8th—15th Century)[1]: 86–88 [2]: 186
![](https://web.archive.org/web/20220824024449im_/https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5a/COLLECTIE_TROPENMUSEUM_Weven_van_kleden_Nanggoelan_Djogja_TMnr_10014444.jpg/350px-COLLECTIE_TROPENMUSEUM_Weven_van_kleden_Nanggoelan_Djogja_TMnr_10014444.jpg)
The word tenun (ꦠꦼꦤꦸꦤ꧀) is Javanese in origin,[1]: 105 it is inherited from the Old Javanese word (tĕnun) which can be roughly translated as "weave" or "intertwine".[1]: 105 [15][2]: 186 The earliest attested[16] mentions about the Tenun can be traced in ancient inscriptions and manuscripts found in Java and Lesser Sunda Islands (especially in Bali);[2]: 186 such as the inscriptions and manuscripts from western Java regions hemisphere dating back to the first century era of Salakanagara,[17]: 212–219 the fourth century era of Tarumanagara,[17] to the Tantu Pagelaran manuscript in 12th[1]: 108 to 16th century era of Majapahit from eastern Java[1]: 108 hemisphere region which illustrates the complete synthesis of the new metaphor where elements of a female, weaving, and time are integrated into one deified body, which is that of the goddess of rice (Dewi Sri) in Javanese belief.[1]: 105 [15] The term tenun also hypothetically reconstructed in Proto-Austronesian form as *tenun, which bear the same meaning in Old Javanese.[18]
History
Tenun fabrics are thought to have existed since the Neolithic period. This has been proven by the discovery of prehistoric objects, such as woven stamps, tools for spinning, and materials that are clearly woven on cloth made of cotton, which are more than 3,000 years old at the East Sumba site, Gunung wingko, Yogyakarta, Gilimanuk and Melolo.[19]
In the Neolithic period, the materials for making clothes were still very simple, such as fibers, leaves, bark, animal skins, and plant roots. The manufacture of clothes from bark must choose a type of tree that is hard and has long wood fibers, then the tree is skinned, then the wood fiber is soaked in water to make it soft. Then use a bat in the form of a stone to shape the bark into cloth. The remnants of the tradition of making this kind of cloth are still found in the area of Central Sulawesi called Fuya and in Papua called Capo.
In Old Javanese inscriptions, terms can be found that describe the existence of weaving in the past. On the Karang Tengah inscription dated 847, there is the inscription "white hlai 1 (one) kalambi" which means one piece of white cloth and clothes. In the "Baru" inscription in 1034 AD the word Pawdikan means batik or weaver. In the "Tebu" inscription in 1021 AD and the inscription from Singhasari in 929 AD there is the term "makapas" or cotton. In folklore that has to do with weaving is the story of Sang Kuriang, an important character in the story, Dayang Sumbi, whose daily job is weaving. The manufacture of clothing in the past can be traced to the relief Perempuan menenun ("women are weaving") carved on a 14th-century stone pedestal from the Trowulan area, now stored in the Trowulan Museum, East Java.[20] [21][22]
In South Sumatra, songket weaving has existed since the seventh century. Based on the analysis conducted on the statues at the Bumiayu temple, it can be seen that songket has been worn by the people of South Sumatra since the seventh century AD, when Srivijaya was based in Palembang. This statue was found at the Bumiayu Temple Archaeological Site which is located on the downstream bank of Lematang River which empties into Musi River, precisely in Tanah Abang District, Penukal Abab Lematang Ilir district approximately 120 kilometres (75 mi) to the west of Palembang City.
Technique
Tenun techniques can be divided into two major groups, namely techniques in making cloth and techniques for making decorations. In addition, there are two other things that are very important in making tenun, namely preparing the manufacture of yarn and making dyes. Traditionally, yarn is made using weights that are rotated with the fingers (Javanese: diplintir), the ballast is shaped like a top made of wood or terracotta. In western Indonesia (Sumatra, Java, Bali, Lombok) there is another way to make yarn using "Antih," this tool consists of a wide wheel that can be turned along with a dial (ontel) to turn the wheel. The manufacture of dyes in the past consisted of two colors blue and red. The blue color is obtained from indigo or Mirinda Citrifonela or noni. In addition there are dyes from other plants such as Achiote.
Type of Tenun
Ulos, Songket, Tajung, Tapis, Ikat, Geringsing, Tais, Ulap Doyo, Sasak, and Troso.
See also
References
- ^ a b c d e f g Sardjono, Sandra Suryani (2017). "Tracing Patterns of Textiles in Ancient Java". History of Art and the Designated Emphasis in Dutch Studies. Barkeley: University of California.
The word derived from the indigenous Old Javanese word, tenun. The local term points to the technology’s native (Java) origin.
- ^ a b c d Christie, Jan Wisseman (1993). Texts and Textiles in Medieval Java. Bulletin de l'École française d'Extrême-Orient. pp. 181–211.
The term normally used, both in early Java and Bali, for the act of weaving itself was tĕnun.
- ^ a b Kahdar, Kahfiati; Jay, Sian E. (2010). Tenun: Handwoven Textiles of Indonesia. p. 191. ISBN 978-602-97473-0-0.
- ^ Kartiwa, Suwati (2009). Tenun Ikat: Indonesia's Ikat Weaving Traditions. National Library of Australia.
- ^ "Tenun: Indonesian Ikat Fabric – Kinds and Art of Weaving Threads". Retrieved 6 January 2022.
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: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "Tenun: Handwoven Textiles of Indonesia". Retrieved 7 January 2022.
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: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "Textiles of Indonesia". Retrieved 7 January 2022.
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: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "5 Traditional Indonesian Fabrics and the Stories behind Them". ndonesia.travel. Retrieved 7 January 2022.
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: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "Inilah 9 Jenis Kain Tenun Tradisional Nan Eksotis Kekayaan Indonesia Yang Perlu Anda Ketahui". kemenperin.go.id (in Indonesian). Retrieved 7 January 2022.
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: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "Diplomasi Batik, Sejarah Panjang Tenun Keragaman". indonesia.go.id (in Indonesian). Retrieved 7 January 2022.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "Tenun". Ministry of Education, Culture, Research, and Technology of the Republic Indonesia. 2010.
- ^ "8th session of the Committee for the Safeguarding of Intangible Heritage open in Baku". United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). 2013.
- ^ "Tenun–Ikat–Sumba weaving". United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). 2013.
- ^ "Inheemsche nijverheid te Nanggoelan. Djogja. Weven van loerik" [Indigenous Industry at Nanggulan. Yogyakarta. Weaving of Lurik.]. Tropenmuseum (in Dutch). Netherlands.
- ^ a b Zoetmulder, P.J. (1982), Old Javanese-English Dictionary, Koninklijk Instituut voor Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde
- ^ Zurbuchen, Mary S. Introduction to Old Javanese Language and Literature: A Kawi Prose Anthology. Michigan Series in South and Southeast Asian Languages and Linguistics. Michigan: University of Michigan Press. doi:10.3998/mpub.11902952.
- ^ a b Mamat, Ruhimat (2014). Kawih Pangeuyeukan: Tenun dalam Puisi Sunda Kuna dan Teks-teks Lainnya [The Kawih Pangeuyeukan: Tenun in Old Sundanese Poems and Manuscripts] (in Indonesian). Jakarta: Sunda Study Center. pp. 212–219.
- ^ Buckley, Christopher (2017). "Looms, Weaving and the Austronesian Expansion". In Andrea Acri; Roger Blench; Alexandra Landmann (eds.). Spirits and Ships: Cultural Transfers in Early Monsoon Asia. Singapore: ISEAS Publishing. pp. 273–324. doi:10.1355/9789814762779-009.
- ^ "Pengertian Menenun dan Sejarahnya". kumparan.com (in Indonesian). Retrieved 7 January 2022.
- ^ "Kain Tenun" (PDF). undikssha.ac.id (in Indonesian). Retrieved 7 January 2022.
- ^ "Sejarah Kain Tenun". indonesia.go.id (in Indonesian). Retrieved 7 January 2022.
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: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "Mengenal Sejarah Proses Pembuatan Kain Tenun di Sikka Flores". kompas.com (in Indonesian). Retrieved 7 January 2022.
Bibliography
- Indonesia, Cita Tenun (2010). Tenun: Handwoven Textiles of Indonesia. p. 191. ISBN 978-602-97473-0-0.
- Tenun Ikat: Indonesia's Ikat Weaving Traditions. National Library of Australia. 2009.